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Ocean Systems Engineering Volume 16, Number 2, June 2026 , pages 115-128 DOI: https://doi.org/10.12989/ose.2026.16.2.115 |
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Sediment grain size in the swash zones of Alue Naga and Kuala Gigieng, Aceh Regency, Indonesia |
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Ichsan Setiawan, Rafwan Hidayat, Syahrul Purnawan, Syarifah Meurah Yuni, Makwiyah A. Chaliluddin, Said Ali Akbar
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| Abstract | ||
| This research investigates seasonal variations in sediments of the swash zones at Alue Naga and Kuala Gigieng, Indonesia, by measuring mean grain size, sorting, skewness, kurtosis, slope of the beach, and height of waves. Sediment samples were collected during May and July 2022 using core sampling to a depth of 15 cm from the swash zones of Alue Naga and Kuala Gigieng. In May, mean grain size (Mz) values ranged from 0.89–1.99 o at Alue Naga and 1.40–2.16 o at Kuala Gigieng, both locations being dominated by medium and fine sands. In July, the sediments had changed to predominantly coarser sediments, the Mz values of both locations changed to 0.73–1.99 o for Alue Naga and 0.71–2.06 o for Kuala Gigieng; however, gravel content increased at both locations to 9.93% and 14.34%, respectively. It was found that the sorting had improved at Alue Naga (o = 0.35–0.88 o) while the sorting was highly variable at Kuala Gigieng (o = 0.08–2.06 o). Skewness was predominantly coarse skewed at both locations, indicating a predominance of strong hydrodynamic forcing at both study locations. Kurtosis values showed a range from very platykurtic (at 0.20 o) and later a very leptokurtic (at 2.43 o). Seasonal increases in wave energy, likely influenced by monsoon weather patterns, impact sediment structure and distribution. Regular observations of sediments in the swash zones provide important information to support coastal management in response to the impacts of natural processes and human activities that affect the coastline. | ||
| Key Words | ||
| coastal management; grain size; sediment; swash zone | ||
| Address | ||
| Ichsan Setiawan, Rafwan Hidayat, Syahrul Purnawan: Department of Marine Sciences, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia Syarifah Meurah Yuni: Department of Mathematics, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia Makwiyah A. Chaliluddin: Laboratory of Fishing Technology, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia Said Ali Akbar: Department of Aquaculture, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh 23111, Indonesia | ||
